Côtes du Rhône blanc 2011, Château de Fonsalette, Emmanuel Reynaud

Côtes du Rhône blanc 2011, Château de Fonsalette, Emmanuel Reynaud

Château de Fonsalette is one of the Rhône Valley’s best-kept secrets, a name whispered with reverence among those who know the wines of Emmanuel Reynaud—proprietor of the legendary Château Rayas. Situated just a few kilometers from the famed Rayas estate, Fonsalette may technically bear the more modest Côtes-du-Rhône appellation, but in the hands of Reynaud, it produces wines of startling beauty, grace, and longevity that often defy classification.

Acquired by Emmanuel’s grandfather, Louis Reynaud, in the mid-20th century, Fonsalette is a 120-hectare property nestled among forests, olive groves, and old-vine parcels of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette, and Grenache Blanc. The vineyards are cultivated with minimal intervention—no herbicides, no chemical treatments, and with painstaking care for the old vines and the complex soils of sand and clay.

Fonsalette is not part of the Louis Roederer group; instead, it stands as a sibling estate to Château Rayas and Pignan, united under Emmanuel Reynaud’s deeply personal, almost mystical approach to winemaking. The vinification at Fonsalette mirrors that of Rayas: whole-cluster fermentation, aging in ancient demi-muids, and an aversion to manipulation. The result is wines that are intensely expressive, delicate yet profound, and utterly singular.

The red Côtes-du-Rhône from Fonsalette, composed largely of old-vine Grenache and Syrah, is velvety, aromatic, and laced with spice, garrigue, and floral notes. It is one of the few Côtes-du-Rhône wines with the structure to age gracefully for decades. The rare white—comprising Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Marsanne—is hauntingly complex, with nutty, honeyed character, and the capacity to surprise even seasoned palates after years in bottle.

Due to the tiny production and cult following, Fonsalette wines are highly sought after, often allocated and rarely found on the open market. They reflect not just a place, but a philosophy—a commitment to purity, patience, and authenticity.

In the world of Rhône wine, Château de Fonsalette may wear a humble appellation, but its soul, shaped by one of France’s most enigmatic winemakers, is undeniably grand.